Wednesday, 11 November 2015

Rome sweet Rome

FINAL SIGHTSEEING AS WE CONTINUE TO TERRORISE ROME: 

*OSTIA ANTICA - One of Rome's finest hidden gems is often eclipsed by the prime attractions of the city centre, but that's not to say this elaborate ghost town won't blow you away just as supremely! We visited these abandoned ruins (dating back to 2 AD) of the ancient, preserved town of 60,000 on a splendidly sunny autumn day and amazingly it was not crowded. A bargain was bagged with free entry, it being the first Sunday of the month. 

The prehistoric seaport has a labyrinth quality to it which is more difficult to navigate than you first realise. It fascinates and chills me to imagine the inhabitants going about their daily lives in this stony, Roman colony. The little man's Pompeii is a wonderful alternative if you don't have the funds or time to travel the greater distance. 
Incredibly, there have only been minimal and minor restorations to the surviving dwellings. You'll reluctantly leave after shuffling your sandals off nearby the remainder of temples or baths with their intricately original mosaic floorings and the rock exteriors of what were once shops and homes. There's plenty of exploring to do at the archaeological site and one of the greatest parts is the amphitheatre. 

SILLY SUES IN THE SEA - Ostia beach will never be classed as one of the prettiest spiaggias known to mankind, but it's a sucky holiday if you don't visit when you're so close to the coast! Briefly dancing in the Mediterranean sea was exhilarating and not as cold as expected; we weren't up for braving a swim like some of the crazies. The volcanic black sand sticks to your feet filthily so you may not want to remove your footwear. 
HAPPY STOMACH :) - 4 words for you, NUTELLA FRIED DOUGH BALLS..... Living and loving my dessert dream was a sensuous encounter, that I would go to prison for just in order to taste this impeccable pud once more <3 One of my dessert policies is not to share the delicious ones but I was so full from my pasta beforehand that I had to let Mum have a few nibbles. While you salivate over that image of what is just love, love, LOVE on a plate... let me take you further afield to the world's smallest independent state. 
The 110 acre walled enclave of Vatican City is truly a place of wonder. The lines to the Vatican Museums were more full on than I'd readied myself for and we were initially adamant that we wouldn't give in to a ticket operator. Upon reaching the end of the queues around the block, to be told that the wait was up to 2 hours from there we relented and coughed up the extra money to skip the line. We had to enter as a group to go through security, but afterwards we were free to do as we pleased. So essentially you are literally paying purely to queue jump. 

VATICAN MUSEUM INSANITY - I don't understand art and am never normally compelled to visit these arty farty locations or to feign interest which means I'm not easily impressed with much of it. BUT I can appreciate that these treasured collections consisting of immense, grandiose sculptures are rather marbel-lous (did I make that quip already??) The craftsmanship is painstaking but with their labours of love, the artists must be dang proud (from beyond) of the sheer volume of visitors who come to WOW over the fruits of their careers. 
I bet I didn't ooh and aah at the 'correct' masterpieces but one man's Michelangelo is another's Salvador Dali. In honesty, while it was all overwhelming witnessing the triumphs of prolific artists because I wasn't well it was a spirit-crushing near-ordeal for me. Plus, I am not programmed to feel joy when left dizzy and faint with a claustrophobic headache from the hot stuffiness. The exhibitss are out of this universe, don't get me wrong. That being said, I personally wouldn't pay to come again because it truly is not my scoop of gelato :D 

FUN FACT - If you were to spend just 1 minute looking at every single work of art within the complex, it would take over 8 years to see it all.

INSIDE THE SISTINE CHAPEL - It is clear to all visitors that the frescos within are awesome and si, it is belissima but be that as it may, it didn't blow me away. I think because it is so praised my expectations far exceeded what my eyes beheld. The 25,000 or so hordes come in and still attempt to sneak a pic on their phones of what is ostentatiously remarkable, thinking they're badass. Yet for what is world-renowed as a sacred, holy place they don't half boom and bark 'SILENCE PLEASE!' and 'NO PHOTOS!!' at the disobedient. 
Anywhoozle, it was the humongous square that bowled me over and the interior of St Peter's Basilica it was *here* that my sight was astonished every which way I gazed. As illustrious as it is, I do feel that the papal enclave is perhaps grander than the purpose it serves. The tombs of past popes were unwittingly creepy to me especially when one of the crypts were opened by cleaners and I failed to get a good look in. 

LARGO DI TORRE ARGENTINA - Behind the Pantheon, lies further ruins of 4 Republican temples where 200+ cats call this sanctuary their home. We spotted several cuties sprawled out sunning their furry selves and taking cat naps. It's weird to think that all those hundreds of years ago, Julius Caesar was killed near these parts and now it is invaded by a clowder of sweet, little feline angels. 

Believe me kittens, I will not rest until anybody reading this has holidayed in Rome and opened their heart to its allure. I loved our mother daughter trip at the start of October and as always joining the rest of you in reality was hard to do. Arriverderci for now xxx

Wednesday, 4 November 2015

There's no place like ROME

DAY 3 - 

Thanks to the sky for letting the sun crash the party as we were met by the bluest of blue skies and amiable temperatures of 24 degrees Celsius (that's 75.2 in Fahrenheit for any of my American amigos that may be reading). 

The crowds at the Colosseo were not as great as I'd envisioned. We were lured onto an English speaking tour for 13 euros each, but not 3 minutes after we'd forked over our dosh we heard a broadcast from the Colosseum itself that tours were only 9! I'm a naive idiot, right? The only way of recognition that we were with this group was with a gold dot sticker which easily could have fallen off and not at any point did it dawn on them to take our names. I swear lots of extras snuck onto our tour group as originally there were only supposed to have been 15 of us but it expanded to nearer 50!!!! This made it nigh on imposs, to follow the leader. 
Our Italian female guide had a big booming voice with which to trumpet grandiose announcements through her rolled tongue and erratic emphasis and intonation on various words. It was hard to understand her dictation when she'd contribute interesting facts and moreso when her mic malfunctioned. Most of the 'tour' took place outside the old stomping ground of the combatants but a small, intricate carving of the face of Jesus above one of the arches was pointed out. Unless you knew it was there, you're unlikely to clap your eyes on it as it camouflages in. 

MY SOCKS WERE KNOCKED OFF: I won't put you to sleep with a narrative of this beloved and historic part of Ancient Rome but I cannot oversell the Flavian amphitheatre enough. Merely standing inside the most widely pictured open-air stadium in the world,  is a thrill in itself. Regardless of the ongoing $25 million clean up operation which covers various façades with scaffolding, it changes nothing. The significance of the structure remains unparalleled. Your jaw will drop round every bend at the architectural genius of Titus' magnum opus. ALL shall have a ball, acting the fool on a photo taking crawl from every angle imaginable. 
It's sad really that *this* slaughter passed for entertainment with an arena full of 50,000 spectators to watch slaves (who were imprisoned in the cages below) take on Gladiators. The multitudes would roar while the weak and unfortunate would meet their inevitable deaths when the kraken was released; against lions and the like, who'd tear them limb from limb. The ferocious beasts were starved for days so that they'd go to town feasting on human flesh. What a bloody and brutal way for a life to end! Competitors could weep and beg for mercy nevertheless the blood-thirsty crowd would decide through chants and signals to kill or to spare the life of the warriors. Dead bodies were savagely dropped through trap doors in the stage and victors championed and rewarded with Roman coins. 

Allegedly, Popes ordered that the original marble must be taken down for their churches but soon felt guilty when this caused much of the Colosseo to collapse. Some two thirds of the exterior has been destroyed by natural disasters but the Colosseum does not cave in entirely. Back in the ancient days, it was free to enter the gladiatorial arena; homeless sheltered on the lowest level, lighting fires to stay warm in the cold of night which has blackened the tops from the smoke fumes. 
FAIR WARNING: The toilet queues for females get cray to the Z! After 10 mins or so of restlessly crossing my legs in a very unlady-like manner; my mind was flipping out but it was not til we edged closer I could see that the disabled WC had been vacant all along. The lack of public toilets results in us having to drink very little or hold 'it' until we make it back to our B and B. Even then, I am repulsed as most of the tourist hotspots don't have seats!! 

We were handed over to a new guide in the form of a man, which Mum and I had thought to be quite hunky ... but then he took off his sunnies!! An instant admonition to be ultra cautious with our belongings did not allay concerns that the road in which we were to walk down to reach the site, was the very street a lad in one of his previous groups had been pick pocketed in broad daylight. 

Don't be duped into believing that you don't need to see The Roman Forum as it seems a snooze! There's no better way to while away the afternoon at this expanse of remarkable ruins centred within the political and financial hub of the founded Eternal City. 
PALANTINO HILL - Poorliness consumed me while tentatively tracing the supposed area where Romulus founded the Eternal City in 753 BC, after murdering his brother in cold blood!! Montigue, soldiered on after getting a grip but tears threatened to tumble down my cheeky cheeks as cold flurried around my head and my throat was afflicted with yucky, strep throaty torture!  Giddy heights do not have to be scaled atop one of Rome's 7 hills in order to reach the sweeping view. 

I approveth this place ======> Piazza Navona, a plaza of performers and opulence. The public buzz like social bees round a honey pot; some marvel at the marble of Bernini's homage to 4 Rivers, others dine at an open air cafe and the rest soak up ze ambiance! 

A Rastafarian singer who embodied the Marley spirit, drew in the largest and most participatory crowd. Strangely, even the birds suddenly seemed to be singing along as the audience grooved. It was all very deeply beautiful to have an assembly of strangers join in with rasta versions of his songs 'yaka yaka yaka yaka YO!!' His modern spin on John Lennon's Imagine, with lyrics such as 'Imagine there's no Facebook' etc. was humorously thought-provoking. It electrified me to see how the unifying power of music brought so many together with a message of love.  
IF I COULD DREAM MY PERFECT GELATO IT WOULDN'T EVEN COME CLOSE - I must impart knowledge of the best artisan gelati in the whole of Rome. It is to be revered. The (naughty) nocciola and (peppy) pistachio dipped in dark, molten chocolate made the vast line we waited in worth every bite. Grazi mille to Frigidarium Gelateria for bringing the gift of pudding to their happy customers. Other gelaterias are not worthy of comment once you get hopped up on this gelato goodness. LET ME DIE HERE!

The one minor quibble is how quick it is to drip all down the tub.  I left a trail wherever I walked like Hansel and Gretel's breadcrumbs indicating to Rome 'RIANNE WAS HERE!!' 

To cap off, what was otherwise a perfecto day we had to return earlier than we had the past two nights as I was hurting everywhere. It was difficult for me to swallow even water by this point and I felt sickly. I've gabbled on enough my little gems, the remainder of Rome will be featured in the not too distant future xx