Bright, BRIGHT, sunshiney days in the bay

WHY COULDN'T WE LEAVE THEIR WORLD ALONE? - 

I was still scooping out sand from my ear cavities from sandboarding the day after. After waving off Brooke, I took a 2km gentle jaunt to Waitangi Treaty Grounds: the birthplace of this nation. February 6th 1840 is an account of British betrayal (when I'd thought we were a relatively innocent kingdom!) and we can't laugh our way out of this one. The Brits and Maoris had differing mind-sets towards land as Maoris believe they belong to whenua, meaning land and Brits considered land to be a commodity 'to own and trade'. 

The Museum helped me gain an understanding of what my country did to unfairly colonise Aotearoa and the ramifications this had, explaining in detail the Treaty terms in which 2 nations agreed to live together in goodwill but 'each side had different understandings of what the Treaty meant and how it would be put into effect.' Basically the Brits didn't uphold their end of the bargain which included protecting the Maoris which led to tension and war. At this point, I get why Maoris in particular, are/were more than a bit livid with us as a nation. Queen Elizabeth II issued a royal apology to New Zealand in 1990; 150 years too late if you ask me! 

THIS CONSEQUENTIAL TERRITORY IS A CAN'T MISS - 

The Treaty Grounds themselves are a beautiful spot on Earth, framing the Bay of Islands splendidly. On my tour, we walked along the Nias Track, in the footsteps of the signatories on that historic day between the British Crown and the Maori people on this protected site. Our fantastic guide showed us the largest waka in the world; Princess Diana got to have a ride on it at her own royal request. A waka is a war canoe and this particular one is 35 metres long, requires 76 paddlers and weighs 12 tonnes in the water. It was built to mark the Treaty's Centenary and is launched annually every February 6th. 

A flag pole marks the spot where the Treaty was first signed, the mast is 34 metres high and the navy is still responsible for its maintenance. It waves the 3 recognised flags of New Zealand. It was a pity that the Treaty House was being utterly refurbished on my visit so we couldn't enter and the noise was deafening. Later, I watched a video re-enactment accurately depicting the worst of the agreement. 

BEING SHOWN THE WAY OF THE MAORIS - 

A tribe war-danced to warn us off anything hostile at the beginning of the cultural performance at the Meeting House. Our designated 'Chief' was offered a bay leaf as a gesture of kindness to see if we came in peace; he accepted on our behalf. Inside the sacred Assembly Hall, we could only take photos, not videos and had to take off our shoes to go inside before we were seated and formally welcomed. The performances were lively and boisterous with some hauntingly melodic and spiritual songs in between the traditional, tribal dances of exuberance. Of course, the haka was the grand finale and it is still just as exciting as when I saw my first. I waited back for pics with the performers. 

Eating in the grounds put me in a picnicking pickle from the food-scrounging birdies. I don't enjoy people seeing me eat completely alone on my travels, so in a way, at least the birds gave me some company. It was a nice walk back to the town centre, past lots of passionately pretty beaches along Ti Tay Bay. 

THIS WAS THE EXCITEMENT OF MY MORNING  - 

On my final full day in Paihia, I set sail on the Blue Ferry across the bay to Russell on a 15 minute crossing. It's fun to skim over shimmery waters with a jolly skipper at the helm. Russell, a favourite little spot in Bay of Islands, being an important and cute seaside town. I'm very smitten by it too! It was the first sea port in New Zealand, because of the deep water harbour it was also big on sealing and whaling :( 

It's hard to see how this gem was formerly the hell hole of the Pacific; swashbucklers got up to all manner of seedy depravities with grogshops, brothels and violent rowdiness. These days, the place of the sweet penguins (Kororareka as it was known in Maori, before it was renamed as Russell in 1844 in honour of the British Colonial Secretary of the day) is far more serene. Not surprisingly, my first port of call was Newport Chocolates, where I forked out $11 for a crafted, hot chocolate and a raspberry, chilli lime truffle. Their own blackboard claims the hot choc as the best in NZ and while I wouldn't go quite that far, it is a cuddle in a cup that I could taste the love in. 

THE SCENERY MAKES FOR A PRETTY PICTURE - 

Forging ahead on a mini trek to Flagstaff Hill, a semi-steep bush walk through kiwi territory and manuka scrub. The Union Jack was first flown here in 1840 but was 'chopped down 4 times up till 1845 as a symbolic gesture against British rule.' I had the hill all to myself for 15 minutes before European couples 'disturbed' my seclusion. It must be nice to wander up whenever the mood strikes residents. Picnics are always humorous when the native birds want to befriend you just to get at your crumbs. I know how to share so threw out leftovers for my feathered friends to eat. 

Taking in the 360 degree views through haze was still special although it wasn't stunningly sunny. The vistas up here are held in high esteem but could barely be seen. And then came the rain! This was not part of my plan but walking in the spritz was refreshing and even so, I bought my happy face out. Funny how it sent all the holiday-makers fleeing! I disagree with the premise of running in general but especially when the ground is boggy so slowly dilly-dallied downwards. 

IT FEELS LIKE YOU'RE STUCK IN THE 19TH CENTURY - 

Christ Church takes the title of the oldest church in NZ (est. 1836) and although it has undergone wide restoration, the bullet holes remain visible from battles between Maoris and settlers - pointing out the troubled past. Wooden, white panelling on the exterior is undeniably quaint but the Graveyard with historical headstones and an eerie creepiness ain't! The Zig Zag walkway had me turn into a wheezy, little lady as it was energy-consuming to slog uphill. 

The stately residence Pompallier Mission, purchased by Heritage NZ in 1941 appealed to the bookworm in me. It once 'served as the headquarters to the French Catholic mission' and is named after Jean Baptiste Pompallier, an apostolic vicar. We were taught the authentic process of how books were bound from the urine-soaked cow hides in the tannery ewwww (grotesquely the urine was often HUMAN!! Double EWWWW) to the printer. It contains the original printing press which published over 30,000 books and tracts mainly religious in content, some of the first in the Maori language. I printed out an illustration using an inked stamp on the press and was fascinated to learn how several expressions derived from the printing industry. E.g. a dab hand, mind your p's and q's and to quoin a phrase (as it was in those days not 'coin') 

HARD TO LEAVE THE GLOWING COVES BEHIND  - 

Pompallier's pretty heritage gardens were fervidly flourishing with technicoloured buds of spring flowers and snowdrops, thriving in bright sunshine. I didn't stay for sunset as I'd seen everything I'd wished to by 4.30pm and the sky looked overcast by that interval. Russell is the type of place you could stay for the rest of your life. As I returned on the ferry, the operator told me of his woes as he'd only sold $200 worth of tickets that day which just barely covers fuel costs. He thought it was his slowest day in 20 years of operation but since he can rake in $3500 during peak season, he can't whinge. What a lovely life and business he has! 

The next morning, I was sad to leave Paihia as I fell in love, SO in love with it there! However, I was glad to be getting back to my favourite little posse. Rachel was kind to pick me up from the bus station so I could spend some time with her and the Keyes as they let me stay at their house for a few nights before my sister flew out. 

THIS IS SO MY LIFE!! - 

Rachel, her friend John and I went to one of Rachel's favourite noodle places as a trio. My spicy chicken noodle broth was like a warm embrace; I slurped it everywhere as it was difficult to spoon up. Only I could splash scalding broth and chilli into my eyeball, momentarily blinding it so I had to rinse it out immediately. That was not incredible (!) 

Originally, the three of us and Graham couldn't be bothered to go to the dance party but Zani and Jess persuaded us to put in an appearance. It was 80's/90's throwback themed so I wore an outfit full of NEON and felt a tad foolish as most hadn't dressed for the occasion. The music was all old school r n' b which was creating a chilled vibe and I can't dance to those jams. We left early as we didn't feel compelled to boogie the night away but it was good to catch up with some friends.

Beautiful views are always better shared for two

I CHALLENGE YOU TO FIND SOMEONE WHO WON'T APPRECIATE PAIHIA - 

Bay of Islands beckoned me to Paihia's mellow hideaway mid-September and it laid a spell on me right away. Paihia is considered the jewel of the bays as the main tourist town of NZ's far north where visitors vacation - it being the ideal base for explorations. How many islands are there in the Bay, Uncle Google? More than 140 subtropical enclaves comprise the Bay of Islands. Paihia derives from 2 Maori words 'pai' meaning: GOOD and 'hia' is defined as 'HERE' as it is good here! According to a study in 2006 Paihia was found to have the '2nd bluest sky in the world' but the weather of my first day was yucky; raining with biblical proportions off and on all day . 

I don't tend to have any affiliation with yogurt but the Breakfast of Champions: yogurt, muesli and raspberry coulis from Cellini's ice cream was YUM. A little look out over the town was still paradise in unjoyful weather and helpful for me to find my bearings.  

I'M LIKING YOU, KERIKERI - 

A tour operator enticed me to take a 3 hour afternoon sightseeing of Kerikeri, a touristy destination as the biggest town this end of the country. 'Kerikeri so nice they named it twice, I did appreciate this corny rhyme thrown out by our shuttle driver. Starting out at the Matakana Boutique Chocolate Factory suited me just fine; the rows upon rows of milk chocolatey goodies welcomed me but the price put me off. We sampled beautifully intense chocolate brittle and a vanilla truffle whilst seeing the staff at work with all their gadgets and doodads. Pigged out on a gourmet chocolate éclair of decadence to die for, from the chocolate café attached to the factory store. A full-length, girly, floral mirror in the bathroom warranted vanity from a selfie! 

The stunning Kerikeri river rises in the Puketi Forest and Maori villages camped along the embankment. Next we were guided around Kemp House, the oldest building in NZ (at least the oldest wooden building to survive) which was built by Maori sawyers and Missionary carpenters. It has a simple, Georgian style completed by Church Missionary Society in 1822 and some reports claim it is haunted. Stone Store was New Zealand's earliest trading post from 1819 and originally a warehouse but it also served as a library, boys school, general store and barracks. 

I DID NOT COME TO THE BAY TO BOOZE. - 

At the Ake Ake Vineyard, I could not participate in the tasting as they just had wine, not grape juice to offer the non-drinkers. Nothing pretty was growing in the vineyard at this time of year so it was a waste of time and my expenses. I wore my displeasure like a fur coat. On the way back, our driver stopped for us to have photos at Haruru Falls ('big noise' in Maori) - an unusual horseshoe-shaped falls where a water monster is said to live in the lagoon below. Paihia doesn't completely suck in the rain as there was a mini rainbow shimmering through the river . 

In my dorm, I met Brooke from LA who had also been living in Auckland doing an internship; we got on well so went to Sauce for garlic knots and Blondie pizza  with the adventurous topping of potato!! The friendly owner came to talk to us at length leading to long chats there. 

LET'S HAVE A HECK OF A DAY! - 

On Tuesday, it was bucketing down again when we rose with the 'lark' at 6.30am to be the first picked up on our Explore Dune Rider Day tour to Cape Reinga. It proved tricky to slumber as our guide and driver, Daniel boomed into the mic sporadically, leaving it on in between commentary so we heard his heavy breathing. We didn't stop to hug the Tane Mahuta, Lord of the forest tree although it was supposed to be on our agenda so I was miffed to say the least! 

Kauri Kingdom was the first stop for a hot choc brekkie; I'm always about a chocolat petit dejeuner! For a roadside caff, it was top notch! The showroom and outlet has a staircase which has become a star attraction in its own right for it was 'carved from a 50 tonne section of 1 giant swamp Kauri log' thought to be 45-50,000 years old and weighing 140 tonnes. It's quite magnificent! 

THIS COUNTRY WAS GIFT WRAPPED FOR ME  - 

Brooke and I had a fab road trip up to the tippy top of Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of Aotearoa, passing: Camel Rock - originally mistaken by Capt James Cook for a desert, Doubtless Bay - a beach paradise with a name originating from Cook's observation in 1769 'doubtless to say, this is definitely a bay' as well as lush vegetation, wetland flora and a rocky coastline on the way up. Wild horses and flowers abound from end to end of this scraggy wilderness with sheep as far as the eye could see - 20,000 in number just from 3 farms we drove through, or so a very reliable source expounded. 

The Cape is regarded to be 'the most spiritually significant place in NZ' for Maoris as it is the terminus from which spirits of the deceased head home after leaping from an ancient 800 year old Pohutukawa tree. 'Te Reinga' a rocky point is where legend has it the spirits enter the underworld via steps formed by the tree roots before journeying onto their final resting place in Hawaiki. 

IT WAS LIKE BEING IN THE HEREAFTER WITH STRANGERS - 

We made it to Cape Reinga before most of the tour buses but were only given 40 minutes in windy, jacket-inflating conditions. It was slightly unnerving as the force of the gust nearly blew me off the cliff top and I want to articulate to all how INSANE that was! I was impressed that the area is unspoilt in its beauty with no commercialism, souvenir shops or the like. As it was a bit misty, we were unable to see out to 3 Kings Island, a sanctuary for wildlife jewels such as lizards and land snails. 

There is a clear division where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean known as 'The Meeting Point' with a collision of turbulent waters. One body of water is thought to be male and the other female; its whirlpools represent the creation of life. I was transfixed by the splendour of the northernmost part of NZ and the aesthetically pleasing, shimmering seas. The photogenic lighthouse was installed in 1879, has a 1000 watt bulb which can be spotted 35km out at sea and is now managed by a computer in Wellington. 

GOLDEN MOUNDS OF GAIETY - 

Te Paki Giant Sand Dunes are ever shifting and some as steep and high as 140 metres, they let our group be silly when sandboarding. I had great difficulty in scaling up them as my feet would sink into the sand while carrying my board; I'm not sure why I was so completely useless at that. Daniel gave a quick demo instructing everyone to keep our elbows on the board and stick toes in the sand in order to slow down and then we were off! 

My first go was not so graceful as I came down with legs spread eagled and made a splash headfirst into the water AND ATE SAND but embraced it fully when I realised there was no stopping the inevitable. The whole group agreed that I for sure had the slide of the day; good luck one upping that, dudes!! It could be the best sand board ride since .. EVER. I felt as though I'd won a gold medal. I don't normally excel at these things but it is one of the most fun things I've done in my 31 years of living despite being terrible at it in every way. My second attempt I zoomed down from midway as I didn't have the energy to reach the top. Although, I couldn't mount the sand board from a headlong angle and had to be rescued by our tour leader, who held it down so I could leap on. Mildly embarrassing to say the least but it was a massively fun chunk of time! 

WITHOUT US THE SAUSAGE SIZZLE WOULD HAVE GONE ENTIRELY TO WASTE - 

As the Te Paki stream was too shallow from little rainfall (I would have brought up bucket loads from Paihia had I known!) the bus didn't have the capability to ride though the stream as it usually can. Lunch was not in the form of our promised fush n' chups (Fish and chips - to non-Kiwis) but a spread of: sausages, steak, bread and various salads had been cooked up for us. Nor was it a scenic location as we were lunching at a sports recreation centre. The tucker wasn't horrible but neither was it what I wanted or desired. 

Again, because of the lack of water, we had to access 90 Mile Beach by way of a different entry point. Really, this enormously popular, tourist trap measures only 65 miles in length and was the main highway there for ages. There is a speeding limit for driving suitable vehicles onto the beach and driving regulations to abide by as police patrol it. We know this for fact as we had front row seats to a police car chase. 

DORKING OUT ON THE BEACH - 

Brooke and I had to dip our toes into the reflective ocean, luke warm in temperature. Others copied and that is when the tide came at us so we were all running back to shore but could not escape a small soaking and it was just lovely! I felt super liberated. Blast the wretched wind wrecking my jump shots; these sorts of pictures make me act like a complete idiot but the results are generally worth it. I just want to verify that it's a cool, goodlooking stretch of sand and I miss basking in the sunshine on the amazingly surreal beaches of New Zealand. 

Back in the bus to race against the tide - this has to be timed just right or you'll drift out to sea. I bet many tourists are caught out by this! After the bus was washed down at Kauri Kingdom, we were delivered back to Paihia two hours premature to the schedule so I reckon things were missed out and our day was unfairly caught short. All in all, everything felt very rushed during our outing so it would have been nicer without time constraints and if we'd been given the full low down upfront.

I AM ONE WITH THE SUN - 

Movenpick ice cream, you never let me down. Your crème brulee flavour= smashing!! Chased the sunset with Brooke up at Waitangi Golf Course, catching glimpses of the peach shades before cloud shrouded it from view. The sounds of trickling water by the rocks were soothing but I was intent on not walking over the rocks. Itchy sand fly bites helped us commemorate the dusk :( My Instagram account gets more and more phenomenal with every image I upload from my trips.