Thursday, 28 June 2018

I'LL always have Paris

IT WAS VERY HARD FOR MY SUB PAR ELECTRONICS TO CAPTURE THE BEAUTY - 


It was reassuring to see that the police were out patrolling the streets in full force, following the stabbings from the night before; though, it hit home that anyone can be taken from you, anytime. I refused to let one sadistic terrorist deter me from venturing out but I shan't lie, I was PETRIFIED all day long. Being jumpy in nature anyway, I was on edge, looking over my shoulder and ultra cautious and suspicious of everyone at all times, for the remainder of my stay. My morning started out walking along the Saint-Martin Canal and ended at L'Orangerie, where I was amazed to see Monet's actual, masterful brushstrokes on his water lilies mural series. 

Haven't you heard? Patrick Roger is a genius with chocolat!! I had an 'I love you' moment with a gourmet ganache taster and a silky praline stick worth eating. And that was before MORE eating down Champs-Elysees, one of the most expensive and luxurious streets in the world. I chowed a not-too-memorable pasta l'arribiatta from Vesuvio but I attacked the deceptively big portion with my lips nonetheless. 
I'LL FIGHT ANYONE, ANY DAY, ANY TIME, WITH ALL MY MIGHT FOR THE SAKE OF CAKE - 

Though I don't think Laduree macarons can be classed as cake, they can be esteemed as the princess of puds. It's never *just* a macaron with Laduree as they really infuse the flavours into the petite shells. They are thaaaaaaaat popular and exquisite that 15,000 are sold daily!! I was enchanted with my orange blossom flower offering (in spite of it being heavily perfumed) and my tart, jammy raspberry one too. You CANNOT have a trip to Paris without macaron-ing; I simply will not allow it. 

The Swarovski store has a crystal staircase which is soooooooooooo fabulous that I need it in my dream house. It's sparkles on steroids and naturellement, I had to pose upon it. Their Disney crystal figurines have adorable little faces but I could never afford a piece like that. For what it's Worthers Original, they're flawless! As is the Arc de Triomphe which I decided against going up in the end, in favour of beret shopping. 
PARIS IS ONE OF THOSE DESTINATIONS WHERE YOU HAVE TO PICK UP YOUR JAW FROM THE FLOOR, AS THERE'S SOMETHING FASCINATING ROUND EVERY BEND - 

The entire edifice of Sacre Coeur, a 19th Century basilica, dedicated to the sacred heart of Jesus is astounding inside and outside. It is perched 130 metres high on a hillside and is the way Paris should be seen by all visitors. I didn't take the steps to the Medieval dome as it was an extra expense when the view was stunning enough from the sanctuary. It is supremely pretty gazing out at the intimidatingly vast metropolis. Holiness abounds particularly as angelic nuns were singing ethereally during a Mass service so I sat to listen reverently. 
Montmarte village is just darling and has a quaintness about it that feels as though time has suspended in Amelie's tres jolie, movie backdrop. Tourists like myself, can't resist snapping pics of La Maison Rose and its cuteness. Then I descended upon, Café des deux moulins which is the neon-lit café Amelie works at in the film of the same name. All the funny staff here are mad as hatters but give all guests the warmest welcome. However, my iced chocolate was inferior to the ones I supped down in New Zealand, for it had a strange aftertaste. 
WHEN IN FRANCE, YOU ECLAIR; YES IT IS NOW A VERB - 

My penultimate day was showery and grey, so the raincoat stayed on and the brolly was used to full effect when I was out and about. It was also a day of sweet eats kicking off at L'eclair de Genie, the GENIEus of choux pastry. Believe you me, their sparkly passion fruit and frambroise éclair was beyond compare with its intensely fruity flavour. Every ingredient has surely been measured with love. 

As chocolate is the LIGHT OF MY LIFE, I couldn't not stop in at Choco Story Museum to learn more about the origin of chocolate. The exhibits span 4 millennia of the history of chocolate from the humble cacoa bean used by Mayans and Aztecs in mystical rituals before it was brought to Europe in the 15th Century. Candy dispensers with all you can eat dark, milk and white chocolate buttons imported from Ecuador, Costa Rica and Venezuela were dotted around the museum space - which I heartily revelled in. A hottie of a chocolatier gave us a demo using a star mould before letting us sample the results and I marvelled at pieces of art constructed entirely from choco including the 9ft high chocolate Eiffel Tower. One criticism: the Spanish hot choc I purchased from the store wasn't top notch as it was too foamy and milky with a bitter note. I'd concoct better chocolat chaud on my death bed!!
CALORIES DON'T COUNT EN VACANCES  - 

A couple of items from my agenda were scratched off as I'd changed two dates of my itinerary around due to the weather, only to realise that these places were closed on this particular day of the week! One of which was the home of Victor Hugo, author of Les Miserables; despite its closure, I had a gander around the square that he lived on and knocked on number 6 of Place des Vosges before I went heavy on the gelato!!!!! There's no resistance in my heart as I've a bit of a sweetie tooth. 

Fragola flavour at Pozzetto, tickled my fancy first of all. It's fruitiness is kissable and whispered me to a Utopia! Though it wasn't idyllic ice-creaming temps, I wanted to compare and contrast Pozetto with Berthillion to see which was my preference.. and that's best done back to back. That's my justification and I'm sticking to it!!! I strongly feel that all should have strong feelings for Berthillion's pistache (known to British folks as pistachio) just for it's creamy texture alone. I didn't think much of the crispy, almond biscuit slabs atop which was a bit burnt but the crunchy, nutty bits inside enhanced the luxurious ice cream. Result? Berthillion, by a country mile. 

"LIFE'S NOT A SPECTATOR SPORT. IF WATCHING IS ALL YOU'RE GONNA DO, THEN YOU'RE GONNA WATCH YOUR LIFE GO BY WITHOUT YA" - 

It was great to finally meet the church from Disney's animation of The Hunchback of Notre Dame face to face. This Gothic cathedral has an average of a staggering 30,000 visitors each and every day! Its half-man/half-beast gargoyles have been the guardians of Paris since 1163; they are a sight to behold. Quasimodo wasn't ding-a-linging in his Bell tower but I still imagined that I was Esmeralda seeking sanctuary in the confines of Notre Dame. You need to set foot on its hallowed ground and gaze up at the rose windows; it's a must must MUST! I may or may not have murdered some of the beautiful songs from the Disney soundtrack inside :S 

At Trocadero, there was no need for a sombrero, for it was spitting from the sky in the 16th arrondissement. I joined the hoardes of tourists gathering at this CAN'T MISS location, for that picture perfect selfie. It's that exceptional of a spot - it'll heal a heart. The fantastique grounds with the famous fountains spouting jets out of 20 water cannons is unforgettable. As I went to make like a tree and LEAF, I nearly took a nasty tumble as I slipped on a slope drenched from rainfall. My ballet pumps didn't have the grip necessary to stabilise my footing and life almost flashed before my eyes, as the sharp angle I was at had a drop large enough to result in a severe injury. In those nanoseconds, I envisioned smashing my skull open like a watermelon on the pavement but fortunately my reflexes kicked in sharpish and caused my feet to glide speedily like an ice skater down the slope and somehow a drastic accident was prevented. My evening ended with the NOT amazing - O Tacos which were a crime against legit tacos and a monstrosity of 'Mexican' cuisine. Trained chimps coulda cooked it! 
WHY DO FRENCH CITIZENS EAT ANYTHING ELSE?!! - 

On my final day, I exchanged at revoirs and hugs with Karley and Tiffany, stowed my worldly possessions in the locker room and broke my suitcase handle without flying OFF THE HANDLE, before making it to Du Pain et des idees. The French themselves flock to this boulangerie, where the sickly sweet aroma of baked goodies exudes through the door. Their chocolat et pistache escargot pastries are every bit as scrummy as the reviews say. I might be the one mademoiselle in the cosmos who could eat one EVERY day!! I sat scoffing momentarily by the canal, but on recollecting that I was in the vicinity where terrorists shot many dead in restaurants in these parts in the deadly Nov '15 attacks, I moved swiftly on. 
Parc des Buttes Chamont, where criminals were once executed, occupies 61 acres and is situated on a high cliff was splashed with spring tones and greenery. It thinks it is so charming! I didn't get to venture inside the manmade grottoes as the gateway was locked but I: saw the mini version of Tivoli's ancient Roman temple, trembled over swaying suspension bridges and got pwned by mozzies! The lake measures at 1.5 hectares; it isn't a natural feature but is picturesque nonetheless. Also, the artificial waterfall was dried up and not cascading.. still, I spent some peaceful moments here contemplating life and all she entails. 

I ENJOYED PARTS OF OUR TIME TOGETHER, PAREE - 

Usually I'm intensely sad to leave somewhere I've holidayed but I was ready to be back home and celebrated with a jus d'orange - freshly squeezed before my eyes, IN a bath tub. Le Pavillon Des Canaux café has quirky décor in each individually and impressively furnished room. What other café can you drink or eat inside an actual bath? How did they anticipate my needs just so? After which, I made it to CDG airport with ease and in a timely fashion but not before buying a box of Laduree macarons cos they make everything better, even if they do cost a pretty penny. 

At the end of my short 50 minutes or so in the air, the English Channel shimmered beneath our wings gorgeously. It was a very well rounded get-to-know-Paris trip but I confess, I was eager to bid the city of lights and love a bientot! You were hot, cold, sunny, rainy, scary, fun, crazy, delicious and EVERYTHING in between. I'd super duper loveth to come back again some day but think Paris will miss me more than I will miss it. Bisous, bisous xxx

Wednesday, 13 June 2018

I can now cross Paris off my fantasy travel wish list

IF I HAD FEELINGS FOR A PASTRY, THIS WOULD BE THE ONE - 
PHOTO CRED: www.times.co.uk

On my third day, I wasted the best part of an hour out of the way and all so that I could savour a pain au chocolat from the patisserie mecca at Eric Kayser. It's purported to be the breakfast spot of the French. I chose wisely and pretentiously as the pastry was perfectly flaky and the chips o'choc melted on the tongue; my compliments to the baker. 

Striking bouquets, buds and shrubs attract many a passer-by to the Marche aux fleurs et aux oiseaux. This is one of the oldest, open air markets in the world since 1808 in fact. A friendly Filipino fella took so many pics for me amongst the fleurs it was almost a mini photoshoot. Promenading the city's nobbly-bobbly underfoot cobblestoned rues and olde worlde passages gave me whimsical feels. 
T'WOULD BE NATIONAL DISGRACE NOT TO'S

There was a bit of a queue to get in Sainte-Chapelle, a Gothic style royal chapel within the walls of a Medieval palace. The low levels are dimly lit, leading up a narrow, stone staircase to the designated UNESCO world heritage site. Sainte-Chapelle's stained glass windows are out of this world and an attraction in their own right that tourists flock to gaze upon. I was stupefied with wonderment at the 50ft kaleidoscopic, fantastical scenes from the Old and New Testament. 
Whose life isn't better with a truly dainty confectionary treasure? A rose macaron from Pierre Herme changed my fate. After tasting two from Laduree later in the week, I can safely say Pierre is my macaron winner. Picking just one is TOO hard cos you can never have too much of something sooooooooo yummy, so it was imperative to have a tarte Celeste too. I didn't choose the cake, le petit gateaux chose ME. I ate this crème brulee of passion fruit, pate sublee and rhubarb with strawberry compote and fresh berries to garnish in St-Sulpice Square. It looked smiley and tasted like SUNSHINE. Cake is *the* common denominator in all my global trips. 
AH, THE SWEETNESS OF DOING NOTHING! - 

River Seine looked splendid in the most romantic city around. It could never become unappealing to anyone #FACT Pont des Arts, the former love lock bridge had 45 tons of padlocks removed which were dangerously weighing the bridge down. I hoorayed for the accordionist on the bridge who played stereotypical French musique. It's my charming fantasy of a classic, romantical stroll around the French capital. 

In Jardin des Tuileries, I wished I had a picnic to sit amidst the city-dwelling socialites and cosmopolitan yuppies in these resplendent, landscaped gardens. The biggest park in Paris is a gorgeous site to bask in sunshine and commune with nature. I put my feet up at the reflection pond for lazing is more my speed than sketching the nude sculptures. Thankfully, my eyes weren't affected the same way they were in Luxembourg Gardens, in these 25 hectares. 
INJURING MYSELF WHEN I VISIT IMPRESSIVE LANDS IS GETTING A LITTLE REPETITIVE

Place de la Concorde is an octagonal square bursting with French history as several notable French figures were guillotined here like Louis XVI. The opulence of the Tritan water fountain is redonk! All the expensive designer stores can be found in Place Vendrome, where I was a fish out of water dallying with snobs above my rank and station!! :D The composer Chopin died here and Coco Chanel was once a resident in this square. 

Late afternoon, after a jaunt around Fontaine Louvois and Galerie Vivienne, I returned to rest at the hostel as :my feet were THROBBING, my left big toe was rubbing and bleeding, my neck and above each elbow were sunburnt and my back was repeatedly seizing up and locking. Basically, I was a hot mess and my body ain't as young as it used to be. I met Karley from Baltimore and Tiffany from Vancouver in Canada, who were studying in Sweden and invited myself out with them that night. They were kind enough to let an oldie tag along with them for a long 90 minute walk to the Eiffel Tower and for a late dinner at the half way mark. 
JUST AN ADDITIONAL 'BORING' EVENING OUT IN BEAU PARIS - 

We dined at Café la Dauphine on the left bank of the river, which was recommended when Karley did a Yelp search. You can't go wrong with chicken, chips and salad, can you? My large portion of tucker was cooked to perfection but the salad isn't anything to brag about. The riverbanks were buzzing with people eating, drinking and romancing. Why is nearly everyone here soooOOOOO in love?! Haaa! 

After the sunlight departed, we had the *ultimate* Parisian encounter as we got fairly close underneath the Eiffel Tower for the twinkling five minute display. Ol' Eiffel slapped us in the face as it was hidden by trees when following the pathway and then it suddenly sprang up and we were under its huge derriere. The glitterings were totally lovely and dazzling, sending me nutso as I swayed underneath. The golden beacon would've only been cooler if the illuminations sparkled in rainbow as well. It was all excessively surreal as the three of us oohed and aaahed appropriately, videoing and photographing what might be the prettiest tower I've ever seen at night. 
ME TO FLAN, IS LIKE A BUG TO LIGHT - 

Our bus back didn't show up. We sat there like lemons until an American informed us that they'd translated the sign and the stop was closed due to diversions. We then decided to take the RER to the Inn but that was closed off, so we had no choice but to walk all that way again or take an uber back. Karley found an inexpensive one for the three of us to split which drove us in comfort and safety, allowing us to see more of the city alight. As usual, Paris turned on the charm. I was so grateful for the girls company as we had such a fun time taking in the spectacle. Laying in bed, my right knee was exceedingly painful and couldn't bend where it had been overworked more than maybe ever before. I'd walked 18.4 miles and taken 48,646 steps which is likely a personal best in one day for me. I vowed to use the metro more the next day so my innocent victim feet would hate me less. 

The following morn, my flan from Cyril de lignac, had my taste buds dancing. Believe you me, your lips will thank me BEAUCOUP!! It was not until after I'd devoured this, that I saw I'd been sitting on a horribly bird-pooped bench. After which, I came upon the memorial for Princess Diana at the Flame of Liberty, near where the paps crashed into the car she was riding in, which ultimately killed her. Flowers and photos commemorate the short life of our dearest Princess of Wales. She was only four years older than me at her death :( I took time to pay my respects, knowing that her son Harry's wedding was right around the corner and that she'd have loved to have been there, beaming with pride. 
THE SINGLEMOST INFURIATING LINE I'VE EVER BEEN PART OF - 

I would go as far to say that the horrendous queuing at the Eiffel Tower was a special sort of torture. It was a 40 minute wait just to get through security, then 80 minutes in the ticket line and it was a hellish experience that I wasn't enamoured with. Although, this was brought upon my self as I'd booked my trip to Paris so last minute that I was unable to pre-book an advance ticket. I was the loser standing there all alone when I needed to sit down so desperately as I was in extreme lower back pain where it kept seizing and the soles of mes pieds were SOLE-destroying. 

A snail would go faster as we barely moved. I'll have haunting dreams about these hours. I had to keep sitting on the ground or barricades whenever the chance arose as I just couldn't cope with my injuries ... also, I'm not blessed with the virtue of patience. It would've been quicker to take the stairs up but in the state my body was in, I couldn't bear to face it. My feet have had a terrible few days!! Then there was 10 more minutes of waiting for the elevator up to the second floor. The lifts weren't going all the way to the top as the summit was closer for one reason or other. 
SNAPSHOTS ARE MEMNTOES TO CHERISH FOR A LIFETIME - 

The lift ascended almost 35 storeys (according to a feet to storey conversion website) uneventfully as we were packed in like sardines. These elevators hold 40 passengers and travel up and down the Iron Lady at speeds of 500ft a minute. Kinda cool to learn that they travel 103,000 kms a year which is the equivalent to going around the world 2 and a half times!! The wrought iron lattice and bronze tower is 324 metres high in total and is 'the most visited paid monument in the world.' Gustave's quintessential landmark has become the city's headliner and needs repainting every 7 years with 60 tonnes of paint to prevent it rusting. 

Terrible photos were taken of me at this global, cultural icon but the sublime views dazzled me. So much so, that I was almost not mad at having queued for a significant chunk of the day. The picturesque scenescapes 377ft below stunned me into silence. I also waited agessssssss to buy a portion of chips at the café and for the toilets at the bottom too. You guessed it; I was 'thrilled' (!!) There were sporadic rainy showers off, giving off a fresh scent. Just because most humans dislike precipitation, doesn't mean it's not good. I welcomed it.

THE SWEET BONBONS DISAPPEAR - 

I could not physically stay upright on my feet any longer after my Eiffel visitation and feared my feet would collapse from under me so I went back to the hostel for a rester but this meant that I had to cross off three items from my planned agenda. When I went out again, it was very chilly and windy in the early evening but I had an hour or so well spent. Beginning at Aux Merveilleux de Fred, where they create fun-sized morsels of sugary excellence. Their mini chocolat merveilleuxs are so light and dainty with an unbeatable combination of a cream centre, meringue segments and topped with choc sprinkles and nuts - inviting my mouth to pop it in. 

Rue Cremieux is one of the prettiest streets in Paris and certainly one of the most colourful ones too with the private homes painted in various pastel shades. I'd SO love to live in this rue in the 12th arrondissement. On the metro home, a homeless man down on his luck was shouting with aggravation at everyone for food and/or money. It was disconcerting as he was aggressive in his manner. I wanted to help but stayed still and silent so he didn't harass me, purely as he was highly agitated. 

ISN'T IT SCARY HOW YOU CAN BE IN THE WRONG PLACE AT THE WRONG TIME? - 

Karley and Tiffany are the loveliest people for dinner companions. They joined me at the hostel bar Belushi's where we made the most of the 25% discount off our meals. My Cali chicken wrap and garlic bread were only 7.50 altogether and you can't go wrong at that price. So I'll eat to that! There was a Full Moon party going on around us with UV, floral leis and a mechanical bull so it got a bit lairy and rowdy - haaaaa, as I carb overloaded. 

It was here that we heard there'd sadly been stabbings a little earlier that night in the Opera region, where I'd been on 2 separate occasions on two different days. We only found out as people started to message us checking that we were safe and sound. It was frightening realising that I very easily could have been there had it happened a night or two before. The attacker killed one and injured eight or more people with a knife before the police shot him dead. These incidents are becoming more NORMAL.. especially in these times of violence and terrorism that we're living in and that's not right. I spent a good hour reassuring people who love me that I was completely safe and would be cautious. It weighed heavily on my heart as I couldn't stop thinking of the friends and families of those harmed in this attack. But I refused to let anything like this, terrify me so much that I wouldn't explore more.