Monday, 19 October 2015

Rome took my heart

Let's start at the very beginning, it's a very good place to start (as Maria Von Trapp sang) somehow I convinced Mum we'd be better off sleeping at the airport overnight ahead of our 6am-ish flight. I managed to sleep considerably throughout our journeyings: on the coach, at the airport pre-security, on a bench at Cafe Nero (after one of their frothy hot choccies), later on the floor even and then a comfier sofa before our departure gate. My trick is - the less you think about it, the better you manage. Poor Mum only had 10 out of 40 winks as Gatwick's A/C was swirling around us endlessly no matter how many times we switched location; there was NO escape from Antarctica! 

We went in peace through the sky; all I remember from the plane was waking to a beauteous moment of flying over the snow-capped Dolomites. The next leg of our transport was on TAM shuttle from Fiumicino to Termini station; glimpsing the Colosseum for the first time in *real* life (as opposed to photographs) was the coolest thing! 

GET ANGRY ON OUR BEHALF: The traffic was immense but we naively hopped into a taxi and were ripped off 30 euros by the chap as we were really only a 5 minute drive away from where we wanted to get to! The roads were chocka and he did drive like a bat out of hell but he went all over the mulberry bush purposely and ditched us far from the door or our lodgings, not pointing out which way we ought to go. I'm the dumbest girl on earth, as the money we'd 'saved' from the airport into Rome was then 'robbed' from us when we could have got a taxi all the way there for a flat rate of 48 euros. If I'd done my homework properly, I'd have realised we could have taken the metro just ONE stop instead. Shame, that some of my first thoughts were 'this is horrible! We shouldn't have come!'
The Eternal City is eternally manic and hectic; non-stop hustle and bustle. I literally feared for my life whenever I crossed the streets as you have to look in all directions (sometimes as many as 6!) in order to avoid becoming roadkill. Vespas and the like, will come at ya even when the light is red for vehicles. A good rule of thumb so as not to die on your holibubs is: WHEN THE LIGHT TURNS GREEN, MAKE SURE YOU CAN BE SEEN! Ultimately, I learnt to woman up to these matters :D 

This day will forever go down, as one of the top 10 most geographically challenged moments I've ever had in all my days. It was hard for me to remain in the brightest of spirits when we were getting constantly lost in Roma. The rain made me complain, the maps got soaked and it was nigh on imposs for us to determine which way to go or find our bearings in the first place. Plus, until you're in the heart of the city it is not marvellously signposted which makes life difficult for first-timer tourists here.

What's with the grumbling? I'm in Romeeeeeee! 'Tho we didn't get off to an auspicious start after checking in and frustratingly going round in circles, for the life of us unable to find *the* way - I'm putting some of that down to hanger, si with an 'h'. Sustenance was sought out and sadly, we had to settle for a run down shack of a cafe as meals were not forthcoming anywhere else. 
My lunch was an insult to pasta! At least the arribiatta didn't look like something a cat had puked up but they'd clearly, merely microwaved it up as some of the penne was hard and chewy. It wasn't a fantastico meal by any stretch of the imagination, but I was *that* famished, I gobbled the lot all the same. 

SINGING IN THE RAIN ALL DAY LONG - The precipitation was refusing to let up but that didn't detract away from the magnificence of the ancient pre-BC points of interest mixed with the modern, everywhere you see. Later on, the showers subsided for an hour or so allowing our brollies momentary respite from the battering. Alas, my socks, bag and map were soaked through and I'd be paying the price with the sniffles over the next few days. 

We passed by what was formerly Circus Massimo, the most grandiose chariot-racing arena but is now little more than a park. As long ago as 6 BC,  1/4 of a million eyeballs could watch all manner of athletic contests. It was saddening to see the grassy expanse where abductors sleazed on all the unwedded women and took them for wives. Poor loves would have been quivering in their gladiator sandals!  
BOCCA DELLA VERITA (MOUTH OF TRUTH) - In the portico of the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, we waited in line to have our turn at recreating the famous scene between Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday. One attempt is your lot with the bearded male made from marble or the the guy who keeps the queuers in check (and needs to chill his beans) will holler! My fingers came away unscathed, thus proving my honest heart for legend has it that the sculpture will bite off the hands of liars. 

The Pantheon is one of the pearls in Rome's oyster and it is mindblowing for a 2000+ year old building to be preserved to this degree. A puddle had formed directly below the rotunda as the rain had leaked through so badly, it had to be fenced off. I'm still reeling from the incredible architecture within and outside of this temple of yore. Gazing skywards through the 'largest unreinforced concrete dome in existence' and you half expect angels to fall from heaven. 
Salvi's masterful travertine Trevi Fountain, is 26.30 metres high of beautiful that's for damn sure. Despite it currently being closed off and drained of water for renovations, it draws in the crowds regardless. Due to this, we were unable to cast our magical wish at midnight by tossing in a coin to ensure our return but Neptune is bound to grant me a second visit someday. Did you know many were injured and some even died in its making, being crushed by the stone? 

IF YOU SEEK PERFECTION IN SUGAR CONFECTION - Get your laughing gear down to Il Gelato di San Crispino which is extolled by Elizabeth Gilbert's 'Eat, Pray, Love' memoirs. I was lovesick for every lick of my meringue with hazelnut scoop but a schmuck for paying the price I did for the piccola portion. 

1 of the downsides to Rome and Italy in general, which I DETEST are the TOILETS and the lack of hygienic options. Most of the public ones are seat-less and so gross I had to peg my nose. After our gelati, we did need to tinkle and with that, we dashed back to the B and B.. well, I say dashed but really what I mean is we became so disoriented in the dark that we did laps of the same loop.. We really could have done with The Wizard of Oz's yellow brick road to lead us back as neither of us are too hot at this navigating lark!  :D

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